Boats

 

Boat Operation & Sea Safety

The RNLI have an excellent interactive online tutorial and booklet on sea safety for dive boat operation.

For further details see:

• http://www.safetyonthewater.ie/
• RNLI

See also the combined diving association boat safety guidelines.

Boat System Manuals

Topknot

Engine: Evinrude E-TEC 115

VHF Radio: Icom IC-M411

Sounder/GPS: Garmin GPSMap 178

Mariana

Engine: Yamaha F100D

VHF Radio: Icom IC-M401E

Sounder: Garmin Fishfinder 120

GPS: Garmin GPS 152

 

Handheld VHF

Standard Horizon HX270E

 

Boat Handling Procedures

Please remember that only qualified Boat Handlers are allowed to drive the boat unaccompanied. The reponsibility for the boat lies with the Boat Handler and Advanced Diver on the day.

Taking the boat off the mooring

• Perform a general check of the boat. Is anything obviously broken or missing? What state are the sponsons in? Pump them up if necessary. Are all buoyancy aids, A-flag, oars, boat anchor on board? This is a good time to take stock generally before focussing on the specifics.

• Are the toolbox, first aid kit and flare signals supply fully stocked?

• Is there a lot of water in the boat? Check that the bailer is tied up. Check that the bungs are in place. Is the water separator/fuel line under water? If so this will need to be manually bailed out and pay particular attention to the next check.

• Check the water separator - if there is a layer of water at the bottom of the separator then drain it out.  If there is water in the separator this implies that there is water in the fuel.  Do not run the engine.  Inform the equipments officers or AD on site.

Note: Both the Evinrude E-tec and Yamaha 4-stroke engine use an automatic fuel injection system. If water gets into the fuel and consequently into the engine system, it can do an enormous amount of very expensive damage. This is why it is so important to check for water in the fuel, and if it is detected deal with it before starting the engine.

• Take the engine off its mooring locks and tilt into the water

• Turn on all electrical switches. Pay particular attention to the fuel gauge. Refuel BEFORE the voyage if necessary and then get more fuel after the dive!

• Check the contents of the reserve fuel tank. Top up BEFORE the voyage if necessary and then get more fuel after the dive!

• Check the fuel priming bulb.
   
• [Topknot] Open switch on the fuel line

• [Topknot] Open the fuel tank air inlet.
   
• [Topknot] Check oil level and top up to recommended level with Evinrude XD-100 oil only.

• Insert the key and attach the deadman connection.

• Check the engine is in neutral and start the engine. Check for the telltale. If the engine does not start then check the priming bulb, fuel connections and deadman. Don't force engine start with quick repeated attempts to start the engine, or holding the key in start position - this will only serve to damage the starter motor. If there is trouble starting the engine seek advice of the AD or even the DO or EO by phone if necessary. Irrespective of whether you manage to solve the problem please please consider the reasons why the problem may have occurred in the first place and make a report to the EO and DO asap after the dive.

Note: Unlike the old two-stroke engines, the lever beside the throttle on Topknot is NOT a cold-start lever.  It is for the self-winterising of the engine and is something only the club's equipment officers should ever use.

• Let the engine idle throughout the next set of checks

• Turn on the GPS, radio and sounder and make sure all are working. Make sure the VHF antenna is erect. You can perform a radio check or lodge a traffic report with Dublin Coastguard as you leave the harbour.  Bear in mind that the coastguard may not recieve your transmission from within the harbour (inner and outer).

• With the engine running in neutral, untie from the mooring, put the engine in gear and move off slowly.

• If whilst driving the boat there is anything at all odd then stop and possibly return the harbour to diagnose the problem. Consider that the dive may have to be cancelled for the sake of upkeep of the boat. Don't force the boat over even the smallest of distances. Inform the DO and EO of any problems asap.

Putting the boat back on the mooring

• Before heading for the mooring make sure that all club gear and rubbish has been removed from the boat.

• Make sure the boat is fully refueled with unleaded petrol before leaving for the mooring. Ditto the reserve tank.
   
• Make sure to notify Dublin coastguard that you have returned to port if you left a traffic report before the dive.

• Approach the mooring slowly and put the engine into neutral. Leave the engine running until tied up.

• Tie to the loop below the mooring buoy using an anchor bend and two half hitches. Learn how to tie these knots properly. A granny knot and a half dozen half hitches is not an acceptable substitute and only annoys the next person taking the boat off the mooring.

• Turn off the engine and remove the key (Topknot - also remove isolator switch on port side of console)

• Turn off switches for running lights, GPS, sounder VHF etc.

• Make sure the bailer is up and bungs are in place.
   
• Again check the water separator for evidence of water in the fuel. If there is water in the separator this implies that there is water in the fuel.  Inform the equipments officers or AD on site.
   
• [Topknot] Isolate the fuel line by closing any valves in the fuel line
   
• [Topknot] Close the air intake on the fuel tank
   
• [Topknot] Check oil level and top up to recommended level with Evinrude XD-100 oil only.
   
• Raise the engine out of the water and engage the mooring locks and then lower the engine onto the locks.

• Make sure all buoyancy aids, A-flags are stowed correctly and first aid kit box and toolbox tops are closed.
   
• Do one last overall check on the boat and one last check to make sure you have the keys before leaving the boat.
   
• Return the boat key to clubrooms asap and inform the DO and EO of any peculiarities with the boat - no matter how small or trivial you may think of them at the time.

Retrieving the boat

Launching the boat

Putting the boat into dry storage

Trailer maintenance

 

Club Rooms

Introduction

DUSAC's clubrooms are used for storing personal and club gear, and also provide a surrogate home for the equipment officers. Though dank and not for the olfactorily-sensitive, they nevertheless have a certain charm. For anyone who's going to be spending time down there, this page tells you what you need to know.

Introduction

DUSAC's clubrooms are used for storing personal and club gear, and also provide a surrogate home for the equipment officers. Though dark and dank and not for the olfactorily-sensitive, they nevertheless have a certain charm. For anyone who's going to be spending time down there, this page tells you what you need to know. If you read no further, then remember:

• Keep clubrooms tidy - put things back where they belong, and don't leave your unwanted junk.
• Lock up when you leave!

 

Map

Upstairs area

This is for boats and compressors only. No other gear should be left upstairs. Leave boats with chocks behind trailer wheels and handbrakes off. Make sure that people can get past, and that the doors will swing open.

Downstairs area

Club gear

Club bottles go at the foot of the stairs - on the left if empty, on the right if full. All other club gear goes in the workroom: club stabs go on the wooden brackets, club regs on the reg shelves, electronics and oxygen kits on the shelves, boat keys on the hooks over the workbench and oxygen cylinders inside the doorway around the corner from the empty bottles. Broken gear should be left on the workbench along with a description of the fault (written on the pad provided).

Personal gear

Personal bottles go in the alcove where the jerrycans live (sort of under the stairs, only not, if you catch my drift). Personal stabs, regs, suits, fins, weightbelts etc all go in the suit room. Suits & stabs go (on hangers) on the rails, weightbelts on the shelves near the foot of the stairs, and other gear by the far wall (opposite the weightbelts) in the area marked 'personal gear'.

Tools & stuff

Tools, equipment spares, kettles etc in the workroom belong to the club and are for the use of the equipment officers, whose pride and joy they are - please don't remove anything from the toolboxes or work area.

Lost things

The lost and found shelves in the suit room (opposite the weight belt shelves) are the place for any unidentified stuff left on dives / trips: flasks, torches, socks, knives, paperbacks, anoraks and other things as yet unnamed - they're all in there.

 

 

Compressors

Nitrox

Nitrox Qualifications

You must hold the appropriate qualifications before you are allowed to dive with nitrox or to mix it.

• A nitrox diving qualification allows you to dive with nitrox
• A gas blending qualification allows you to mix nitrox (fill cylinders)

The two are distinct: a gas blending qualification does not allow you to dive nitrox and a nitrox diving qualification does not allow you to mix nitrox.

 

Nitrox Diving Qualifications - What Mix Can I Dive with?

Only those qualified to use nitrox may dive with it. BS-AC recently made nitrox part of the Ocean Diver and Sports Diver training syllabus so those trained under the new system are now qualified to use nitrox as a back gas (i.e. they are not qualified to carry different gas mixes) with various restrictions. Divers trained in the old system, where nitrox was not part of the syllabus, are not qualified to use nitrox unless:

1. they have attended a nitrox workshop, or;
2. they hold some other BS-AC nitrox qualification, or;
3. they hold a nitrox qualification with another agency and have approval from the Diving Officer to dive nitrox.

There are more advanced nitrox grades attainable by completing skill development courses.

Note: The BSAC diving grades and nitrox workshops do NOT allow you to use different gases during your dive. You may not carry a pony or stage cylinder with a different mix to your back gas. Holding a gas blending qualification does not qualify you to dive with nitrox.

 

Those Trained under the Old System (where Nitrox was not part of the Syllabus)

Grade	Completed OD Nitrox Workshop	Completed SD Nitrox Workshop	Gas Mixes Allowed	Notes
Trainee	No	N/A	Not qualified to use nitrox.
Trainee	Yes	N/A	Nitrox 32 and 36 only (nothing in between)	Must use air tables, or dive with computer set to air.
Ocean Diver	No	No	Not qualified to use nitrox.
Ocean Diver	Yes	N/A	Nitrox 32 and 36 only (nothing in between)	Must use air tables, or dive with computer set to air.
Sports Diver / Dive Leader / Advanced Diver	No	No	Not qualified to use nitrox.
Sports Diver / Dive Leader / Advanced Diver	Yes	No	Nitrox 32 and 36 only (nothing in between)	Must use air tables, or dive with computer set to air.
Sports Diver / Dive Leader / Advanced Diver	Yes	Yes	Nitrox mixes up to 36%

 

Those Trained under the New System (where Nitrox is part of the Syllabus)

Grade	Gas Mixes Allowed	Notes
Trainee	Nitrox 32 and 36 only (nothing in between).	Must use air tables, or dive with computer set to air.
Ocean Diver	Nitrox 32 and 36 only (nothing in between).	Must use air tables, or dive with computer set to air.
Sports Diver	Nitrox mixes up to 36%
Dive Leader	Nitrox mixes up to 36%
Advanced Diver	Nitrox mixes up to 36%

 

Nitrox Filling Qualifications

Only qualified nitrox and mixed gas blenders are allowed to fill cylinders with nitrox. If you are qualified to dive with nitrox, but not to mix it then you can ask somebody else to fill it for you.

Nitrox Cylinders

The club has 10 designated nitrox bottles. These have the word NITROX spray painted in green on them. These bottles are not in oxygen service but are for use with the nitrox panel. When using a club bottle for nitrox please use one of these if available. For these and all other club bottles, ALWAYS analyse before filling (even if filling with air) as the bottle may have some residual nitrox in it which will affect your fill.

If you're not using one of the club nitrox bottles but filling a personal bottle, you'll have to make sure it's in oxygen service if you are filling using partial pressure blending. For mixes up to 40% using the panel your bottle does not need to be in oxygen service.

Nitrox Blending Equipment

The club has a partial pressure blending Nitrox station in clubrooms. This is only for use by certified Nitrox blenders. The club regularly runs the BS-AC gas blending course for anyone looking to get certified.

A new addition is the MPS T-Mix blending panel which is plumbed in between the compressor air intake and the Coltri compressor in club rooms. This has the ability to produce Nitrox and Trimix with a 40% oxygen content.

Nitrox Payment

Nitrox fills are no longer charged on the basis of the number of litres of oxygen used: instead there are two flat rates; one for fills using partial pressure and one for fills using the nitrox panel. The blender, regardless of whether the fill is for him or someone else, is responsible for paying immediately. 

• Partial pressure fills cost €5
• Nitrox panel fills cost €2

If you're not a blender then whoever the blender is will be responsible for collecting the money from you.

Analysing Nitrox fills

Fills must be analysed at the time of filling, and the percentage of oxygen and the MOD must be marked on the bottle. Duck tape and permanent markers are provided.

If you're not a blender, then you should really be there when your bottle is being filled. If not, the blender will lock it in the cage until you can pick it up, and at that point the fill must be analysed in front of you.

Finally, the fill must be analysed one last time at the dive site in front of your dive buddy and the dive marshall.

 

Maintenance of club gear

References

• Regulator Service Manuals
• O-ring database
• Apeks O-rings
• YD discussion on o-ring sizes for common dive use

Personal gear

This page outlines the personal diving equipment you'll need for open water diving with the club.

Basic snorkelling gear

Snorkelling just needs get a mask, fins, snorkel and boots. The club has fins and masks for borrowing, though it's handy to get your own, and you'll likely get a package deal that will include fins, mask and snorkel. You'll use this kit when you start open water diving too.

• Mask
  • Lenses must be 'tempered' glass (look for a 'T' symbol on the glass)
  • Prescription lenses can be fitted if you need glasses and don't wear contact lenses
  • 'Skirt' surrounding lenses should be made of silicone rubber
  • Colourless silicone lets in more light than e.g. black silicone
  • To check the fit, place the mask on your face and inhale through your nose. The mask should stay in place and be hard to pull away
  • Avoid too-large volume masks - the lenses should be quite close to the face
  • Before first use, de-grease the glass and 'skirt' by rubbing thoroughly with toothpaste, or the mask will fog up underwater
• Fins
  • It's best to buy fins you can use in the sea, not just the pool.
    These have a foot pocket for neoprene / drysuit boots, and a heel strap
• Snorkel
  • The cheapest are just a plastic tube with a mouthpiece - they will get you by
  • More expensive ones have valves to make draining easier, and prevent rebreathing exhaled air
• Boots
  • For 'semi-dry' wetsuit diving, you need neoprene boots, which fit inside fins. If you're buying fins, check the boots fit comfortably.

The dive shops in Dublin usually offer package deals on pool gear around October. Flagship Scuba in Grand Canal Basin at the east end of Pearse Street, and Great Outdoors on Clarendon Street, near the Stephen's Green Centre, are both near to Trinity. Check with the Diving or Training Officers who should have the details of any deals.
[N.B. - All other equipment needed for pool sessions (cylinders, regulators, stab jackets, weights) is provided by the club.]

Semi-dry suits

For diving in the sea, you'll need a suit. Most people go for a semi-dry suit to start with. These are close-fitting neoprene suits with wrist, neck and ankle seals. They trap a layer of water between suit and skin, and this warms up, stopping you from getting cold. Semi-dry suits must fit well or water will flush through and you'll lose heat very quickly.

For Irish waters, most people use a 2-piece 6mm or 7mm-thick suit. At current (2010) prices, these are around €300 new. However, the club now has a good number of semi-dry suits for borrowing, and also arranges a bulk discount deal around January. In addition, second-hand semi-dry suits often come up for sale within the club.

Dry-suits

An alternative to a semi-dry is a dry-suit. These keep the water out, and are worn with insulating underclothes and a neoprene hood. Dry-suit diving requires you to control suit buoyancy as well as BCD buoyancy, so it's probably a little easier to learn to dive in a semi-dry. However, dry-suits are more comfortable and usually warmer - particularly between dives. Most people who continue diving in the club buy a dry-suit.

Dry-suits cost from €500 to €1500 or more new, though second-hand suits do come up for sale in the club. They can be off-the-peg or made to measure, come in a range of materials, and have many options for valves, zips, wrist and neck seals etc. If you're thinking of buying one, it's worth asking around the club to see what people recommend.

Gloves

You'll also need gloves (at least until the water warms up towards summer). These are usually made of 5mm or 3mm neoprene. With 5mm gloves on, it can be difficult to use your fingers. 3mm gloves are much more flexible, though less warm. Mitten-style gloves are warmer, though again make you less dexterous than do gloves with separate fingers.

Weight belts

Suited up and in salt water, you'll need weight to sink. Most people buy a simple weight belt made from webbing, lead weights and a buckle. Weights are secured by threading on retainers, or by twisting the webbing.

You can also buy weight belts containing lead shot. These are more comfortable, though less adjustable and more expensive. People buying their own BCD sometimes opt for one with integrated weights.

Other gear

As you progress through the diving grades, you'll need to acquire some more items of equipment. Here's a list of things that most Sports Divers would have:

• Depth gauge and timer, or dive computer
• Knife or cutters
• Delayed SMB (surface marker buoy) and reel
• Compass
• Torch

Eventually, most people who keep on diving buy their own regulators, BCDs and cylinders (or rebreathers).

Drysuit repairing

Jean Brady of Dry Suit Repairs in Shankill, Dublin, has a great deal of experience repairing suits and has fixed suits for many in the club. A few years ago she kindly sent us this page of trade secrets to help solve your leaky suit problems. If after reading you still don't feel up to having a go yourself, you can always contact Jean through her website at www.drysuitrepairs.com.

How to be a D.I.Y drysuit repairman/woman

by Jean Brady

 

Have you ever thought of doing your own drysuit repairs? If you've ever repaired a bicycle puncture, then you're half way there.

Testing leaks

Testing your drysuit to locate a leak is very simple. Firstly, there are two main types of drysuit. Neoprene and membrane. Neoprene drysuits are best tested right way out, while membrane drysuits would be better tested turned inside out. The boots will not go completely inside out, particularly if heavy duty boots are fitted. Try to get the suit inside out to where the junction of the suit and boots is visible. This will show if there is a leak between the suit and the boots, a frequent cause of wet feet.

Wine bottles make good stoppers for the wrists (first drink the wine!). Pull the bottles down so they wedge in the wristseals. If necessary put masking tape around the end of the wrist seals to stop the bottles flying out while under pressure.

If testing a suit inside out, reverse the inlet valve so you have something through which you can fill the suit with air. The dump valve should not leak when the suit is inside out. If it does leak, then I suggest you get a new diaphragm (diving shops should be able to supply these). If testing the suit the right way out, then the dump valve will either have to be reversed, or have a pad of neoprene inserted under the cap to block the valve. (It is always a good idea to attach some sort of reminder - like a piece of RED material on the zip pull tag- to make sure you remember to remove the neoprene blocking pad!!!!).

Put a suitable object into the neckseal of the suit and close the zip. If testing the suit inside out, the zip will have to be closed through the neckseal first, and then the neckseal blocked. Use something like a half gallon bucket or a ball. Some D.I.Y. specialists use a traffic cone. We use a special beaker with an inlet valve fitted to the base of it. (Copywrite design - patent pending - see W.S.) Secure the edge of the neckseal with two bands of masking tape. Inflate the suit through the reversed inlet valve until it is full. Full means that when you knock the body of the suit with your knuckles, you get a nice bass drum sound. If you don't get this sound, fill until you do. You'd be amazed how large a suit will inflate to, particularly a neoprene one. Michelin Man eat your heart out!

Here's where the bicycle thingy comes in. Fill a bucket with warm water, (why freeze your little fingers off?), and a use generous squirt of good quality washing up liquid. Use a cloth and wash over the entire suit. Be methodical, It's amazing how a sneaky little leak can escape the eye. Start on the neck and shoulder and work down the length of the suit and up the other side to the shoulder. Turn the suit over and do the same again. It may be necessary to pump the suit up a bit more at any stage, depending on the extent of the leaks. Use tailors chalk to mark any leaks with an "X", the leak being at the centre of the "X". Blackboard chalk will do but watch out, it washes off very easily, and you can "lose" a leak if you are not careful. When the suit is dry, it will be lovely and clean, with all traces of salt well washed off in the testing process. It can now be patched or have aquasure applied to leaks.

Patches should be well cleaned before glueing. Two or three thin layers of Bostik 2402 two part glue should be applied to both surfaces, allowing each layer to become touch dry between applications. Frequently four coats of glue will be necessary, depending on the absorption of the materials. When the final coats are touch dry apply the patch, beginning with an edge first, and working towards the centre, through to the other side, pressing down with a rubbing motion to expel any bubbles which may occur.

Seam leaks generally require a wide tape patch. These are done exactly the same way using two to three layers of glue on the suit and just one or two on the tape. Tape is inclined to want to curl up when the glue is applied. One of the ways to avoid this is to clean both sides of the tape with M501 cleaner, or alcohol, cleaning the dull side first and then the shiny side, which will be the side the glue is applied to. Allow the tape to "rest" for a couple of minutes before painting the glue on to it. Peel the glued tape off the glueing board and stick it onto the suit starting at one end putting a very slight stretch on it as you rub down towards the other end of the tape. Again, try to expel any bubbles as you go along. When the tape is in place, use a wallpaper roller to press the tape into all grooves and folds to make sure of maximum contact.

Instructions on how to replace wrist and neckseals will be dealt with in the next edition of Subsea. (hopefully!)

Happy glueing and safe diving - or should that be safe glueing and happy diving?!!

 

Replacing wrist and neck seals

Well how did you get on with the pressure testing and patching? Not too high from the fumes? Good. Then we can continue.

Perhaps a word of warning here regarding glue fumes would not be a bad thing. When using substances of this kind, the room should be well ventilated, and as with all highly flammable materials, great care should be taken not to leave these substances where children can get their hands on them. Healthcare warnings are usually printed on the labels, and a couple of minutes taken reading these, could prevent accidents.

The secret of doing wristseal and neckseal replacements is:-

1. Preparation - getting as much of the old seal, tape and glue off as possible.
2. Cleaning both surfaces to be glued with M501 cleaner.
3. Having a "former" which will fit the sleeve or neck opening snugly.

I have a series of different size "formers" ranging from cat food tins to cocoa tins to large baby food tins, for various sized arms of drysuits and ankles of sailing suits. For the neckseal "former" I use a 10" flowerpot. Just make sure that any sharp projections have been filed down to reduce the risk of tearing the neckseal. Equally a small bucket, or traffic cone could be used as a former. If a "former" is not quite large enough, then a layer or two of Cornflake packet cardboard wrapped around the outside of the former to enlarge it, and secured with masking tape should do the job.

As with all repairs, clean both surfaces to be glued thoroughly with M501 cleaner. Fix the former into the arm or neck opening, so that the seal can be stretched over it. In the case of wristseals, put the seal on and overlap the seal up to the line of where the old seal went. Fix the seal in place by putting a strip or two of masking tape around it. Fold the seal back over the masking tape. This has two purposes, it holds the seal in place, and it gives you something to glue against and leaves the outside of the seal nice and clean and free of unwanted glue. Paint two layers of glue on both surfaces, allowing them to become touch dry between layers. When the second layer of glue is dry enough, roll the seal down over the arm of the suit and press out any bubbles which may try to form. With the seal in place, the whole arm can be rolled using the former inside as a roller. If there is a seam in the sleeve of the suit, make sure to press the seal down into the groove of the seam. Your thumb nail will do this, provided it is not too sharp!

Measure the tape around the wristseal and allow about one to one and a half inches for the overlap. It is a good idea to buff (with sandpaper) about half an inch of the edge of the wristseal. This will give the glue something to key into. The inside of the seal is already buffed in the manufacture, so it is not necessary to do it on the inside. Clean down the buffed edge of the seal with M501 cleaner. Clean the tape too, both sides. Apply one coat of glue to the arm of the suit, and one to the tape. Sometimes it will be necessary to apply two coats, depending on the material absorption - use your common sense. Getting the width of the glue line on the suit to match the tape is a thing which will come with practice, but if you want you can mark the width with chalk before applying the glue, it will make for a neater edge for your glue line. Apply the tape to the arm and press well down. Glue the tag end of the tape to overlap and when dry enough stick this down too. When the tape is stuck down on the outside of the arm, take out the former and roll the seal and tape, making sure that contact is made in all the little grooves and folds. Turn the arm inside out, clean down the edge of the suit where it joins the seal, and repeat the taping process once more.

N.B. If talc is used to assist you in getting into the suit, then the cleaning process must be very thorough on the inside to get rid of surplus talc.

The process is exactly the same for replacing a neckseal.

Here are a couple of extra hints which may be of use to the D.I.Y Repairman/woman.

1. Use a jam jar with about half an inch of M501 cleaner to keep your glueing brush in. The top can be sealed with a couple of pieces of masking tape (where-would-we-be-without-it) when you are not using it. A certain amount of evaporation will occur, so keep the level topped up around the bristles.

2. A cheap three-quarter inch paintbrush is adequate for glueing - get one with a plastic only handle. If you get a nice varnished handle, the M501 will dissolve the varnish!

3. Trim the bristles of the paintbrush into a semi-circle at the ends before you start. I have found that it makes it easier to paint glue with when the end of the brush is rounded.

Well, that's about it. If I tell you any more, I'll be able to retire, and I don't propose doing that for another few years!

If any of you out there would like a "hands-on" session, I would be willing to do a group session for about six people at a time. Feel free to phone me - during business hours please, on 01-2721255. Or mobile 087-2043356.

Jean Brady

 

 

If after reading this you're still not inspired to fix your own suit, but prefer to leave it to the professionals, you can find Jean's website at www.drysuitrepairs.com.

Towing FAQ

Is my car suitable for towing?

People tow the box trailer with compressors on cars of 1.4L and up.

For towing the boats a decently-sized car 2.0L and up should be ideal, although people have certainly towed on smaller vehicles than that.  

However these are only rough guidelines, the torque and power of the engine have to be taken into consideration also. Engine size and power aren't directly proportional and older engines will output less power. There's also the weight of the vehicle and the state of its suspension and brakes to consider as well. 

If in doubt it is a good idea to speak to an experienced tower. 

 

Fitting a towbar to your car

The club will pay 50% of your towbar fitting costs and then, if you remain an active tower in the club, you will get free air money for the following two years. You will still have to pay your BSAC fees. Active tower means you have towed at least three times for the club in the previous year.

It's a good idea to try a few places for quotes for fitting towbars because the cost can vary enormously.
 

Legal aspects of Towing

When towing you are restricted to a maximum speed limit of 80kph, including when on the motorway.

With an ordinary category B licence, a person can

• tow a trailer of up to 0.75 tonnes DGVW, with a vehicle with a DGVW of up to 3.5 tonnes and seating for up to eight passengers (apart from the driver). The combination weight cannot exceed 4.25 tonnes.
• tow a trailer exceeding 0.75 tonnes DGVW, provided that the DGVW of the trailer does not exceed the un-laden weight of the towing vehicle, and the maximum combination weight does not exceed a total of 3.5 tonnes.
   

Weights of Club Trailers

 

Mariana:

Boat 330kg (this is just the weight for the basic boat hull - not including fuel/equipment)
Engine: 170kg
Trailer (unladen) 300kg, (DGVW 1100kg)
Total: 800kg

For practical purposes assume 100kg of fuel and equipment in the boat, so 900kg.

Topknot:

Boat: 360kg (again just the weight for the basic boat hull - not including fuel/equipment)
Engine: 170kg
Trailer: (unladen) 400kg, (DGVW 1500kg)
Total: 930kg
 

For practical purposes assume 100kg of fuel and equipment in the boat, so 1030kg. 

 

Box Trailer:

Unladen 260kg, payload 490kg, GVW 750kg

Compressors 120kg each, approx

For practical purposes assume trailer and 1 compressor 380kg, 2 compressors 500kg, 3 compressors 580kg (the BMI compressor is light).

 

Therefore it is possible to tow any of our trailers on a B licence as long as the combined weight of vehicle and trailer does not exceed 3.5 tonnes and the weight of the trailer does not exceed the unladen weight of your car - for Topknot in practice (assuming 100kg of equipment/fuel in her) that means you will need a vehicle weighing 1030 kg to 2450kg or so.

A Nissan Almera weighs 1205kg unladen. A BMW X5 is about 2260kg unladen, so this range covers a lot of vehicles. 

 

Towing Boats

• The boats must be strapped down through the eyes on either side of the engine using ratchet straps.
• The painter should be used to secure the boat to the boat trailer at the front. The pressure should be taken off the boat winch once this is done.
• The engine should be up (this should be the case after retrieving anyway) and put on the mooring locks for travel.
• The bung should be taken out and the the bailer put down when coming out of the water, and the bung should be replaced prior to launching. Mariana should not be towed with the bung out as it will break off in transit so replace the bung prior to travel.
• Don't forget to attach the lightboard and attach the failsafe on the brake - if the trailer should ever come off the hitch this will stop it.
• The boat trailers both have integrated brakes which are activated when the momentum of the boat trailer pushes into your car when you slow down - the 'accordion' part of the boat trailer.
• Make sure any bottles of liquid, like two-stroke etc, are sealed tightly to avoid mess, any fuel should be upright and not able to fall over.
• After towing long distances the bearings will be very hot. They should be given time to cool before entering the trailer into the water to launch the boat. Failure to allow them to cool can cause them to break.
• Upon returning to clubrooms allow the bearings to cool before washing them down.
• Flush the engines out with fresh water using the rabbit-ears (both boats can take the rabbit-ears, although Topknot has an intake also) before storing the boat in clubrooms.

Towing compressors

• Make sure the compressors have their fuel turned off before setting off (or fuel can leak into the oil and then the oil will need changing)
• All compressors should be strapped down tightly using ratchet straps and not knots. Ideally you would stop a few minutes into the journey and tighten the straps, as they will naturally loosen a little.

 

Lightboards

Always check the lightboard you are bringing is working and connected properly to the plug.

If the lightboard is not working fully report it to the Equipments Officer.

 

What if I have an accident or break down while towing?
 

If you are towing and cause an accident that damages your own or other vehicles, your insurance must cover this.

The club has insurance that should cover damage to club equipment in transit but it won't cover your vehicle.

Most breakdown policies will also include moving any trailer you are towing to wherever your vehicle goes for repair - it's a good idea to have such a policy and to check what it covers. 

 

You must inform your insurance company that you tow otherwise you may run into trouble when trying to make a claim. 

General Information for Towers

College is open between 8am and 12pm.

If, for some reason, you cannot get the metal double doors open, college security should have a key to open them. The D.O. will also have a key.

 

Useful Things to Bring

Bring the towing kit - this contains rope, cable ties, a spare lightboard plug, a spare break-away cable, new bearings and a few basic tools that are necessary to change bearings.

Do bring a spare wheel for the trailer you are towing.

If towing the boat trailer on a trip the grease gun is a good thing to have.

A socket set is a handy thing to have in case you need to change a wheel, as is a warning triangle and a high-viz jacket.

If towing the boat you're usually expected to bring boat keys, and in the case of Topknot, two-stroke oil.

 

Tyre Pressures for the trailers

The formula for the ideal tyre pressure on a trailer is:

(max tyre pressure) * (actual load per tyre in kilos/tyre max pressure rating in kilos)

I've worked out numbers for the tyres currently on the trailers as of April 2011 but this could change. The max load and pressure is on the sidewall of the tyre and boat and trailer weights are calculated above.

 

These are pressures for the tyre while cold. Tyre pressure will be about 10% higher if the tyres are warm.

 

Mariana: 900kg so 450kg per tyre. Tyre max load 670kg and max pressure 65PSI

65PSI * (450kg/670kg) = 44PSI or 3 bar

 
 

Topknot: 1030kg so 515kg per tyre. Tyre max load 730kg and max pressure 65PSI

65PSI * (515kg/730kg) = 45PSI or 3.1 bar
 

 

Box Trailer and 1 Compressors: 380kg so 190kg per tyre. Tyre max load 325kg and max pressure 44PSI

44PSI * (190kg/325kg) = 25PSI or 1.7 bar

 

Box Trailer and 2 Compressors: 500kg so 250kg per tyre. Tyre max load 325kg and max pressure 44PSI

44PSI * (250kg/325kg) = 34PSI or 2.3 bar

 

Do's and Don'ts

• Do give yourself plenty of room on corners, especially with the boat trailers - the boat will cut any corner
• Try to avoid any sudden turns or braking maneouvres
• If you're new to towing, tow the trailer a few times before trying the boats
• Do get someone to explain reversing maneouvres to you and practice somewhere such as an empty car park if possible
• Do stick to the speed limits - they are for safety and your braking distance will be much greater
• Even if only dropping a boat in for service etc the club will pay petrol costs for towers - contact the club treasurer who will reimburse you
• Do let your insurance company know that you intend to tow  
• Before setting off make sure that the trailer attachment really is secure! Give it a good hard pull up and down
• If setting off somewhere in the back end of nowhere that you haven't been before, and your vehicle isn't that powerful, be on the lookout for big hills - ideally send someone else who isn't towing on ahead to make sure you won't have problems